![]() If all the outlets are on the same circuit, and the non-GFCI outlets are downstream of the GFCI, they’ll be “dead” or have no power if the GFCI at the counter trips, or if the breaker trips. The outlets at the kitchen counter are GFCIs, and those at the table where you plug your computer in are not. It’s useful to understand how a room is wired so you know which outlets and switches are using the same circuit. Then plug the devices back in and turn them on. Older homes may have fuses if the main electrical panel has not been updated. Also check the breaker panel for tripped breakers. Are any lights not working? Unplug devices from each GFCI outlet and check to see if the “reset” button has popped out. Is just one outlet tripped, or more? Check the room. First, determine the extent of the problem. ![]() The challenge is determining if only the outlet is faulty and must be replaced, or if it’s working properly and there is another problem that must be resolved. Anytime you want to test the outlet, push the “test” button if power to the device shuts off, it’s working properly. GFCIs have a “test” button and a “reset” button on the outlet. GFCIs are pretty simple and reliable, but sometimes we do see them fail. These outlets are required in kitchens and bathrooms, rooms where water is usually present. In that case, you may find a GFCI outlet that’s not working.Ī GFCI is a type of electrical outlet that has a built-in breaker that trips (shuts off) when it detects something wrong, such as short or ground fault. Sometimes, though, there’s a glitch-a light won’t turn on, or you can see that your computer is plugged in, but it’s not charging. In our homes and at work, we expect to use electricity without thinking about it, and that’s as it should be. Leave the warning tape on LOAD.Electricity is a powerful and useful force. Read the instructions and they will tell you how to attach 2 wires to the LINE screw. Honestly 90% of people think it works that way anyway. See why I don't like calling the onward wires "Load"? There is nothing wrong with putting both wires on LINE on every single GFCI in your house, and then, putting a GFCI receptacle at every receptacle that needs protection. However, if you're not planning to GFCI-protect the rest of the circuit then do not use LOAD. Do I want to GFCI-protect them here?" *And if you do, you must affix "GFCI Protected" labels.įor instance, this outlet may already be GFCI-protected from another GFCI elsewhere and they violated Code by not labeling them "GFCI Protected". You should be making a conscious decision: "Those onward wires. Always protecting the onward side of the circuit ignorantly as a blind habit, is a terrible idea that causes no end of woe and misery - we get it in this forum every week. And the reason is this: GFCI "Load" actually confers GFCI protection to the rest of the circuit. The hot wire is the diva, but neutral is just as important.Īnyway, I do not like the term "Line" and "Load" being used as synonyms for "the supply wires" and "the onward wires to other loads". Say, when you claim it works, did you actually power an appliance off it? Or just get a hot light with a non-contact tester? Because electricity flows in loops. However, when they add a battery and a computer, they get much worse, because now they hide the 3 useful lights and give you only the not-even-wrong meanings.īy that thing's indication, both the neutral and ground wires are broken, and clearly not if the outlet works. In fairness they are intended/tuned for wiring mistakes in brand new constructions, not troubleshooting in old work. Those 3-light testers are infamously wrong, and only mislead novices. Has anyone experienced this and/or knows why the new new GFCI outlet is failing? I tried two different new outlets and both produced the same error. I'm not sure why this particular outlet is not part of a GFCI circuit, but installing a GFCI outlet is not working. The reason I am replacing the outlet is because the inspector for our house said that the garage plugs should be on a GFCI circuit. I removed the outlet, reinstalled the old one and it works fine, except it doesn't respond to the GFCI test. I installed the GFCI outlet and when I plug in the tester is shows "> 30 VAC" and "Open Gnd Neu" and the red light on the tester illuminates. So, I want to change this for a GFCI outlet. It works fine but when I plug in a tester and push the Test button, nothing happens (it should be part of a GFCI circuit so the fact that nothing happens means something appears to be wrong). ![]() It has both line and load lines attached along with a ground wire. I have an outlet in my garage that is not GFCI.
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